In Mo’s car we will also install a rear-view camera because Mo has a Kenwood multimedia naviceiver in his car where you can also switch to a rear-view camera-mode when the reverse gear is set you have to know Mo is a special kind of driver driving backwards could potentially be tricky in this case we will route the cable of the rear-view camera in this case together with the RCA cable and then we can tick-off this task at once We have to unmount the old license plate illumination light There are rear-view cameras available from Zenec that are almost invisible because it is integrated in the license plate illumination light or to be precise the light will be replaced and suddenly I have a rear-view camera which is totally invisible. Now we have to look how we will do the cabling. It’s a bit of an act. Unlock and remove this. This step right here is not a problem at all with this car. then it’s easier to access everything Mo! We will have to discard the license plate completely or actually not the license plate but the license plate holder because what do we do when the bass is really pumping in the car? A bitumen battle on the license plate because there is nothing worse than a TRRRR TRRRR TRRRR! That is really unsocial. Nobody needs that! You might not be able to hear it on the inside but the grannys next to the car will complain. So let’s do it right! Alright! So to mount the illumination light camera insert the tool here from the left and clipped to the upper-right. It’s also unmounted like this in the reverse order. and then this has to be unlocked inside how does this work? There it is! On this cable there is only the illumination so ground and a switched plus when the light is turned on. so the light goes on here. We have to tap into this for the camera as well. because we unmount the old illumination light The new illumination light is already installed here including the camera and now we have to connect the illumination light wires to the camera and route our camera cable to the front to the multimedia head-unit Now I will show you how to solder properly which is really important because often you see solder joints that are more glued than soldered drill both ends properly We will cut that cable so that a piece of it is still left on the original connector because if you have to revert this installation than we can reuse this. But that’s quite unlikely. then we will remove a bit of the cable wrap Hey! stay there! Shrink tubing is the big topic! so this is completely sealed afterwards and nothing starts to rust then we already have our heat shrink installed on this wire here we do the same as well strip the insulation and drill the wire So then we get to soldering already! And how do you solder properly? Like this! First we tin both ends of the cable which works as soon as I make a little “tin bath” here and then we just let the tin soak into the copper wire It’s important that the tin is shiny afterwards which indicates that the tin did not get too hot because if it was too hot it gets porous and won’t connect properly! and we will do the same here both cable ends get tinned The tin on both ends will then just melt together they will connect like this Just let it set for a short time. Then it is already cold and ready for use Not sure if this is really a soldering course right here? now we have soldered these cables properly Push the shrink tube over the solder joints. Nice and centered! And then burn the paint. Or actually don’t! Nevertheless make sure to shrink them properly then you will see the whole contour of what is beneath it And done! Theoretically we can turn on the illumination now. Can you do this real quick? Wonderful! It’s working! Jep! Wonderful! Now we have to make sure to route our camera cable through the rear end into the car’s compartment and then we will route this cable together with the other cables to the head-unit In order to properly access the cable which we have to route through here into the compartment we have to remove the surrounding insulation rubber completely then you can access the trim parts and then you start to unclip those from the top Look! There’s two vertical clips on the side on the other side as well I have unmounted them already you have to have a firm grip for this task So now I can show you where the clips are hidden on this part these are here once horizontally on the trim piece and also vertically so you know where all these parts are hidden to apply the proper force for unlocking the clips without breaking them So then we can put this piece aside pull the rubber away then we can deal with this side Let’s have a close look! There are also a few round clips in there which you can easily remove with this removal tool and then you can also pull the side trim away and beneath this on the co-driver’s side there’s the cable duct where we can route the cable from the outside into the compartment I have already inserted a routing-cable from the top of the duct where the illumination cable is installed I basically just pushed it through and had a look that it exits on the bottom We just fix this together and then we can pull it out to the bottom there we have it and – just for fun – we can clip this part in already because we are basically finished by now and this is how the camera looks completely invisible! here we are done installing now we have to just have to pull our camera cable into the compartment Be careful! Down there is also the exhaust! Therefore we have to route the cable without touching the exhaust. Because what’s gonna happen otherwise? Sure! the cable will melt! When you route a cable through such a rubber duct which is already water-proof by design then we have to get back to being practical I cannot just open this whole thing up all the way down We just cut a little hole in here Then we pull our cable through and then I’m also through the water-proof rubber duct-seal We’ll just leave a little room below And now we do one more thing! We will apply our bitumen tape once again! Bitumen is also a sealant we just wrap it around this spot and then we apply firm pressure onto it So this is then an additional sealing And then we have saved at least an hour of work just for the cable-routing! And now we have the cable of our rear-view camera inside the car The rest is then a piece of cake: Extend the cable, route it to the head-unit. And done! Reassemble everything! And we are on track! Now we just have to make sure that the clips are mounted in the correct order In this case: First the vertical ones Well, actually the horizontal ones because the vertical ones are clipped-in last and now every clip has to be aligned to it’s position Well, this sounds good! Then the side! Click! and on the other side Weren’t we already aligned before? Yes! Good! And now press from the top to the bottom That was the little “Rrrrrzzzz!” Now the clips are in and we can reassemble the latex stuff I mean the surrounding rubber sealing. Not what you might have thought. My ambiguous articulation of distinct things! I’m a pro in doing such things! I’m a pro! Everything back in place! Good! The camera-cable is routed What do we do now? We will stick the license plate properly otherwise once we have proper bass, everything will start to oscillate! and you know this for sure: Everyone knows such cars! Where there is a really nice sound inside but from the outside you just hear: Brrtsss! Brrtsss! Brrtsss! No! We beg to differ! We stick the license plates and once again with what? With bitumen tape! And for that alone bitumen tape gets a gold award from ARS24.com because we use it to such an extent It’s just brilliant! The license plate is very light It doesn’t stick by its own. Just to be precise! Bitumen tape is not a glue! Bitumen tape is an adhesive and it will separate eventually if you attach too much weight to with it which must not happen! We don’t do that! In the summer, when it’s really warm and the license plate starts to slide you will see that a long time before if it’s not straight Then you just apply a bit of pressure rearrange everything properly and upright and then everything is back in order but that’s the insignificant part! What’s really important is that nothing is rattling Which it does instantly when there is such a plastic part in between which doesn’t have a proper connection and therefore just rattles which cannot happen like this because the license plate has a direct connection and no air in between This sticks like a maniac Well, actually not stick. It adheres! Please do not screw a license plate! I don’t give a damn about that! Then we would have holes in he license plate which looks sh*tty! Just adhere it! I have done that with all of my cars so far and everything is fine! It fits! You don’t have to worry about that! Have a look! Doess the rear-view camera strike you? Not at all! You can’t see it! Just awesome!