How to install heated seats in any vehicle for 50 bucks
How to install heated seats in any vehicle for 50 bucks

Ok so we’re taking out the seat right now.
Usually there are just four bolts on either side. There are the two bolts right there
and the two ones in the back around that little ledge. Then the whole seat can just come undone.
Just make sure you take off all the wires and stuff. Okay so we had to take out the
seat belt too. Basically it was just one of those little star bolts. One of these little
guys that was just stuck inside of there. Then the seat belt just came up and out, just
like that. And now the wiring is also unclipped, right here. So the seat can just come out.
So every seat’s going to be a little bit different. This one latches on with these
little clips. Just like that one; that one’s stuck. So this is the pad itself. It’s got
the connectors coming out the back. So all you need to do it slip it, now that I have
the seat up a little bit, I’m going to kind of tuck it up inside of there without removing
too many clips; make it less complicated as possible. And then get it up inside of here.
So the best way I’ve found to do it is to take off these little…these strips. Release
them all the way and then put them back down again so they’re not as tight. That way
when you slip it down underneath the seat they’re a lot easier to pull off. Cuz you
don’t want to pull them off and then put them in the seat, otherwise it’ll get caught.
And then make sure it’s as flat as possible underneath so the person sitting on it can’t
tell. So now we’re just putting the pad in the upper part of the seat back. The pad’s
in there all straight and everything, now we just need to pull out the sticky parts.
So for the side of the seat, this is where the button goes. I’ve take a drill bit,
I believe the actual size is like a 25/32 or 27/32.Then you just take the little sensor
and slide it inside. And then once the sensor’s in, just press it down into place. Looks like
I need to make it just a little bit bigger and it’ll snap into place and not come out.
And that’s what it looks like with the button in place. So now we’re just cleaning up
the wires underneath. I put them all down flat so I could still, if I need to, adjust
the seat at all. And I’ll still be able to slide it back and forth. Right now I just
have these wires sticking out just for the grounding power. So once I attach those I’ll
clean those up as well. So when we’re connecting the power, you have to connect it to a wire
that is only on when the car is on. So right now I have that wire cut open a little bit
as you can see. So if I touch it with my tester it’s not going to turn on unless the car
turns on. So now that the car is on its running electricity. That’s just to make sure that
we don’t have this running and draining the battery at the same time. So this is only
going to be on if the car is on. So this is going to work with the power I took the fuse
out…with the ground, the little round thing on the end wasn’t cutting it for me, so
what I’m going to do is I’m going to attach it to this bolt that goes right down inside
of there. The bolt was connected to the frame so it should be grounded. I’m going to do
it on this side. So I’m going to wrap it around the bolt and then bolt it in really
tight. I’m going to scrape away some of that black paint as well to give it a better
connection. And then right here, you never want to cut any of the wires all the way through
so I’m going to show you how to splice that in without cutting it. I made a connection
right here cuz I took apart a section of wire and then stabbed the other wire through it…this
one, and then wrapped it around. And that will make it so that the thing itself will
hold once I put the electrical tape around it. And it will also never cut any of the
wires. And there we go. I have the switch right here, the High, Off and Low. It’s
got the yellow LED and the red LED to show which one it is. I got all the wires tucked
up underneath zip tied to the top of the frame of the seat just making sure that when I slide
the seat back and forth we never have any problems with the wires getting pinched anywhere.

57 thoughts on “How to install heated seats in any vehicle for 50 bucks”

  1. Ron Bernard says:

    Cool , I didn't even know you could buy seat Warner's , my wrangler is getting 1 , thanks again !

  2. kajion says:

    That wasn't a proper electrical job. You should have soldered the connections, you should also have made sure that whatever circuit you were splicing into could handle the increased load, otherwise you will be blowing fuses frequently.

  3. JerryRigEverything says:

    Ive been running the car for almost a year now with no issues. Electrical tape was more than suitable for this job. Soldering would have been overkill, as well as would have put the project out of range for the average DIY'er. Obviously there are many ways to accomplish the same thing. To each their own.

  4. shaun says:

    Thanks for the video, was very informative. Just a little bit of constructive criticism for you:
    As an electrician I would advise you that at minimum you would have wanted a compression fitting to secure the connection. Soldering is the best method, but compression fittings will work if you lack the tools or skill. As is, If that connection starts to corrode, or starts to get loose, it will become hot and potentially melt some wires. Just my 2 cents- hope it helps you!

  5. JerryRigEverything says:

    Thanks! Ill be sure to make my connections stronger next time. Its always better to be safe.

  6. Edward O'Brien says:

    Easy inexpensive way to create a happy wife! Me too…

  7. JerryRigEverything says:

    They are WAY nice in the winter.

  8. Tim Kepler says:

    great mod, but stupid implementation. has your car caught fire yet? you should never randomly tap the wiring harness for 12 volt feed. Especially for high current applications. not only are you adding extra stress to a writing harness but you are mixing wire gauges and using "shitty" connections. the grounding wire i can look over but do your self a favor, and re run the positive all the way to your battery. if your worried about it getting left on, drop a relay in line with your positive feed that runs off your ignition switch. relays are super cheap and you could even just pocket one from the wrecking yard if your that broke. installing heating elements in this manner is just asking for a fire. be safe, do it right.

  9. Tim Kepler says:

    im not above doing it your self. and i agree with you on some things with the other commenter's but isnt it better to do it the right way. especially when its not that much harder and only takes another 10 minuets or so. think about all the idiots who shouldent even attempt this and dont have the knowledge peoples like us have. there gonna watch your vid and just assume they can tap any wire they find. im not saying your responsible for anyone whos a idiot. thats not it at all. but shouldent you take pride in doing it right and not feeding the morons?

  10. jmnic63 says:

    Nice Hello Kitty Band-aid  haha , anyway i found these heated seat pads at the store for 10 bucks ! they are 45watts each and plug into a cigarette plug . its pretty decent the only drawback is that the power is always on in my car so i always have to make sure i unplug them 🙁 

  11. lkmattson says:

    Looks good, especially the 'Hello Kitty' bandaid. 

  12. Tim Johnson says:

    The link works, However they are not $50.

  13. David Gold says:

    Yes, you may spend $50 on a non-OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) grade of seat heater made in China, but would you really want to re-do all this work in a couple of years when they fail? I install heated seat systems for a living. Rostra is what I recommend, as they are an OEM supplier to hundreds of carmakers worldwide. Also, if you value your own personal labor rate to $0 per hour, then the title of this video is correct. Obviously, the major "cost" of doing these is wrapped up in the time it takes to do it. That is only one reason why $500 per pair is a reasonable fee. I appreciate your posting this video, however I feel compelled to comment on the $50 part as being inaccurate. 

  14. David Gold says:

    Yes, you are correct in stating that you should never "cut all the way through" any wires in the vehicle. However, I strongly recommend that you solder the connection you made at the power wire, and use some good self-amalgating tape (Google that one) to waterproof the joint. Especially for a connection at the door entry, where winter snow and ice (which turns to water) and rain definitely can get into your joint over time. 

  15. David Gold says:

    Typo: should be "SELF-AMALGAMATING" electrical sealer tape. 3M makes a good roll. 

  16. Ricky Q says:

    Awsome Jerry. great idea. its damn cold in Tn.

  17. David Zheng says:

    This is a great video. $50 is a great deal. 
    We got the seat heater kit in

    They worked very well in winter time. Heating up in a minutes. 

  18. CncObsession says:

    Good connectors are cheap and available almost everywhere. Other wise thanks for sharing. Also testers have the point on the end so you dont have to strip the insulation, just poke thru it. A safety pin works too.

  19. David Gold says:

    Yes, solderless crimps have been FAA-approved for aircraft for years. And yes, it's due to vibration concerns. However, for automotive use, soldered joints last longer, due to salt and water issues, and sometimes rough handling during maintenance.

    I use both techniques, depending on several factors.

  20. Carmen Lane says:

    Thanks for the video! Also, I loved your Hello Kitty bandaid 🙂

  21. snnnoopy says:

    I recently (today) have a problem where the seats shorted out and drained the battery, plus where the fuse is it smoldered. The dealership found the problem and disconnected it from the battery.  These seats were factory after market installed by the dealership…or actually the company that does all of the upgrades for the  local dealerships.  I'm thinking that water got into the connection where the power connects. Awaiting what the dealership says. It's out of warranty.

  22. Jon's Garage says:

    I spy a ramcharger in the background. Sweet!

  23. Amru Ashour says:

    Currently watching this video with a hello kitty band aid on my finger! I thought i was the only one!!!!

  24. Girard Aquino says:

    did you ever get to figure out how much the grid draws on that wire you tapped into?

  25. c0pyimitati0n says:

    Thanks for the video but your voice it so soft man, it's hard to follow.

  26. Smokewagon 00 says:

    That was helpfull, but could you tell everyone were you purchased the heating elements with button?

  27. Smokewagon 00 says:

    Right on man… And thanks for putting up this vid!

  28. Sam Chaney says:

    Anyone know where I could access a power wire in a Chevy Volt?

  29. Emin Muradov says:

    You the man!

  30. Matthew Coloe says:

    So you are saying instead of running the power as you show in the video, use a fuse tap to tie into a circuit on the fuse board which is only on when the car is on? Does the new circuit (the one for the heated seats) require a fuse as well?

  31. Dawn Stratton says:

    I wish you were my family/friend…. I have no one that is willing to take this on for me!

  32. zim777 says:

    Had no idea this was possible! they are cheap too, it's been a restricting factor on the car I get and now opens up a ton of new options!

  33. Andrew Pena says:

    Great video! I have these same seat warmers I got off Amazon recently…super inexpensive. I'm going to follow your perfect method for this but I have a question. You tied into the power wire (engine off/on) but removed the fuse from the warmer. Was there a reason for this? I guess I'm trying to determine why they put the fuse there if you didn't end up using it? My thought was that you would use the fuse if you wired directly into your fuse box, in your case you didn't and therefore didn't need the fuse. Correct? I like your method a lot better.

  34. Da Whiteman says:

    Im doing that on my truck

  35. Umayr Hussain says:

    watching in 2016

  36. Volts auto installs jlozeau says:

    I do not recommend anyone install their own pads…take your vehicle to someone with experience.

  37. seewall11 says:

    Well played Sir! Less than 5 min  video. Concise and to the point. Watched other Noobs 30 plus min vid, pulling dashes and center councils apart. Tearing whole seat covers off. What a disaster! Going to do it this way for sure. Thanks the post.

  38. Dylan Lynn says:

    NEVER, EVER just test a wire to make sure it's an accessory wire and tap into it. I'm sure 10 other wires going through that door sill would of done the same thing. And NEVER just twist wires together. Solder them if anything. And for the love of God don't tell people to just wrap wires around bolts and screw them in. USE TERMINALS! You're just begging for something to burn with this!

  39. Anthony Boffa says:

    Could you do this for any car seat or for seats only built to be fire resistant

  40. he162 says:

    Link to heater stopped working.

  41. arcadeforever says:

    the heating pads work great! Just make sure you wire them correctly run a home run wire to the battery and fuse it!

  42. dinh says:

    Cute bandaid Jerry! Totally something a gal like me can't install but I like how you showed us how! =) <3

  43. ali khalifa says:

    I only have the pad and the switch button, what should i install between them to control low and high heat? Please help

  44. kentatnight says:

    Have you every heard about this invention called a fucking relay dumbass

  45. john jay says:

    I had a passenger complain yesterday that the backseat is too cold in my old 1990 BMW E34 520i… I SERIOUSLY WOULDN'T DARE DO THIS TO MY CAR… ALTHOUGH I HAVE REMOVED AND DISSASEMBLED THE BACK SEATS THIS SUMMER TO WASH THEM WELL! I see this a very dangerous modification to do in ANY CAR! and anyway,after the M20B20 STRAIGHT SIX engine is at working temperature you will sweat the shit out of you in this car regardless how cold is outside… tested last winter at minus 18 degrees celcius with the fan at 4! those inside couldn't believe it and didn't want to get out of the car! 🙂

  46. Chris Hughes says:

    Ha! With a name like "JerryRig" I wonder why people post concerned comments. "Sir, can you come to the parking lot with me, I believe your car is on fire…"

  47. Mary LeFever says:

    What is a reasonable price to pay to have them installed by a pro?

  48. TΩwmaX says:

    I plan on doing this to my old ass Ford Fusion that didn’t have heated seats already in there

  49. Chris Sramek says:

    I’d have ran a nice heavy wire to the fuse block instead of scabbing off of an existing circuit.

  50. Su Mainha says:

    This is really safe?

  51. Stephen Youngblood says:

    …and make sure the bus/fuse you are using is of sufficient current rating!

  52. Caleb Willhelm says:

    Never seen so many cry babies in my life. Itll blow the fuse. You'll die in a car accident before this wiring sets the car on fire smh. Bunch of key board warriors.

  53. Jason Pass says:

    Why didn't you just run it to the fuse box?

  54. robb bishop says:

    So you just ran it to a hot wire with out knowing how much juice the heated seat inserts pull and not knowing what circuit you tapped into? Pure Genius

  55. Keira Mitchell says:

    Wow! Super cool and informative!! Can you do this same technique but put it in the back/lumbar area of the seat? I have a bad back and heated seats are a Godsend! I personally think all cars should come standard with heated seats … but that's just me 😛

  56. Diamond V Dallas says:

    I literally was Googled how to replace my car seat first recommended video was this! Thanks Zack. Love your Videos

  57. D says:

    Too much work

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