Hecklautsprecher austauschen im VW Golf 7 | Einbau Tutorial | Eton UG VW Golf 7-F/R21 | ARS24
Hecklautsprecher austauschen im VW Golf 7 | Einbau Tutorial | Eton UG VW Golf 7-F/R21 | ARS24


The upgrade system for the Golf 7, as speaker set for the front speakers and for the rear speakers is identical, the same material, so you can now, for vehicles that have no speakers, quite easy retrofit the speakers or for vehicles that already have speakers in it, even easier just get better sound from the back doors, we’ll show how we insulate a little in the door, how to connect and wire the speakers. The summary of all the necessary information about your car, if this is now videos and pictures or even the products that fit into your car specifically, see Find everything for your car on our website, ARS24.com. Especially with the woofer, you can see immediately that it is thought through, it’s built exactly like that, that it can be optimally installed in the Golf, here fit the plug devices already for it and it is already in the set a plug-in device with a cable switch here for the woofer, which then goes on the original VW plug and the whole thing is very easy to install because all the devices, insulation, Sealing, everything is already integrated. Plug-and-Play. Even with the tweeter, it’s all plug-and-play, this is the same plug in the Golf 7 there, already here integrated cable divider, so that the set-up for the Golf 7 is ideally, only a bit of hot glue is required to re-attach the new tweeter to the old device, but we’ll show you how it works. We are now installing the Eton Upgrade System in the rear doors of our Golf 7. Our Golf 7 has no preparation for the rear speakers, which means there are no speakers, we need to lay the cables to the radio shaft, so we’ll show you how to remove the door panel, how to run the cables, when they are not in there, how to run them in to the radio shaft, we will show you how to install the speakers in both variants, just with cable already laid or with original cable available, so you just have everything in one and we will have a short door Insulation and install the door trim again. To get the door panel off on the one hand, we have to get down here, down here is such a small nose or a slot where you can drive in with such a material here and the whole part here can unlock and below it is a screw, a Torx screw. So once in there and down there, here’s another Torx. And now comes a little trick, because now we have the taillight in place, this backlight has to be removed and down here is this Unlocker, that’s the same with the front door, in the back door it is only hidden here, so I have to go in here with a 10mm socket and turn it 90 degrees. So that it is vertical, you can also feel, yes that is now vertical and that is unlocked here and only now i can go in with my unlocking tool and on the side go in here and unclip the clips. So, once. Now everything is uncliped and now you can start at the back to push the whole thing up and work upwards to be able to get out of the front and now we have our door lock here, we can do that here, the little tab we have to bend back to take out and below we only have a connection left, which we can also stake out here and now i show you from behind, as that looks with the llocker down here, there’s an oval hole in there and we have down there this lock, i practically lock here now, the next 90 degrees, it is then open again and locked again. What is always relatively normal when removing the door panel, that is just the clips here sometimes not unlock with it, but here accordingly with such a clipper clinging the two parts apart, then finally done and then i can now afterwards get the clips out and put them straight in the door panel again. For vehicles that have speakers in them, we would have now here the right connection already, that would come out here and then we would only need the old speaker to drill out, because there are rivets in there, you have to drill them out and then with the new back in here stuck together like that, that would be it with the Woofer. Sounds easy, is also easy and the tweeter, since we have now also here in there, it would be like that the tweeter according to here, that would be now for the Assembly in the area of the front speaker, we do not need the ring in this case, we install it all here then directly, that this is underneath, so and you have to glue it in, we will do so still. But the original with speakers would be now there is a speaker in here with such a connection, we will take it off, we’ll put it here and then the right counterpart would be at the door, plug it in again and put the door panel on again and so we would have replaced all the speakers, but we have to first now lay our new speaker cables here, how it works now there is a whole episode of it. Then let’s open it all here. Well, there we have our woofer hole and what we have to do now, we really have to go through this connection now, which is a bit more elaborate, pull the cable through, but here we go just Step for Step back and see how the whole thing looks like but we must also get inside the lining parts and put them away, because we have to anyway now lay the cables from here on the B-beam down over the sill cover up to the radio shaft, but now, piece by piece. Here under the rear seat a strong pull, it is already gone, we have a clip that we have to get rid of then the first, he has to get out and now we can clap the whole thing out of here. So far and now we do the same from front to back. So we have to be up here now to start to tear it all out of here, so easy and now we can put the sit here a bit already, let’s do it all the way up and now you can work the lower part of the upper part to the outside away accordingly. Exactly, now i’ve already clapped out there, the same we have to do in the back again. Well, now we come in quite well here and now we have our sill paneling unlocked completely, here we have to put the belt still away. Voila. It continues with the B-pillar paneling, as we now have the lower or middle part also still unlocked, so, we have the outside already, there are now 1, 2, 3, 4 clips in it and we can pull it again out of the upper panel, then we do not need to pull away with the upper panel. That’s gone too, we still have that down there a connection to it, there is a release tab and now you can put it all away. So, now it gets more interesting, now we can practically look inside from inside the plug, that’s the connection, we get in pretty well, but if we do not need it, we’ll start from here, an unlocker will be pushed up. Now we have unlocked it and now we can also put the whole plug out of here, can go now and also take out the plug practically inside. And now we can pull it out the bottom and have the connection so to speak and here we miss two pins that are normally wired when speakers are in there, so there we have to go now, put new pins in and put the counterpart in here, here it looks a little wild, because it looks unreachable, but we’ll get there as well, because we can unlock it all up here and then take it out, come out, so the whole thing packed together, so and now we can additionally with these little check marks here do all the unlocking and on the side too. So now we have our whole Plug-in box here together, we have to put it aside and now we can practically connect these two pins, these ones, in turn, match the missing on this side, because we now put the corresponding pins in and so that we can carry the cable over here, we can also get this whole sleeve out of here by unlocking that from the bottom. We have to do that with a screwdriver, that’s a bit fun free down there. Then i can remove it from below and pull it down and have the whole part with me in the hand and now i can work much better on it to pull my cables through. We still have to pull that a bit off. Exactly and now comes out this rubber bushing here and then we can now pull the cable much better afterwards and ui pull it afterwards over it again and the cable is just tied together again, but that happens in the end. Now we have to preapre the cables we now want in the door and once what is now practically from inside to the car radio, there is at VW the small pins that we can just put here then, which we have to put here, here the splint and now we have to squeeze together on the cables on it and we do that at the workbench. We have the short piece here which is installed in the door. Of course you also need the right crimping pliers so that can be put in here. That’s what it looks like and the same for our others. That is our inner cable now. And we can now pin this in between these two plugs, B pillar and door trim. How do we get the cable through the accordion, which is a bit tricky so i would say, There are special feeder belts for this and here we could just go here drive through it and all this gets in there again and here we come straight away with our feeder tape, so wonderful and there we hang our cable now. So, and now we can pull this back, we move from the side, no pressure, not that we hurt any old cables. So, get out a little bit more and piece by piece pull through, Voila, there we have it. Then of course we pull the whole thing in the right position so and now we can put our cable here to pin it in. And there are our 2 connections. Here on this side, we have our connection, now let’s see what we have plus and minus, the fourth is our Minus, So that’s the one here, we can put it in here. So and these are our connections that we now pack together. Of course, we can lay the cable along the wiring harness along with it and get it fastened, too. From inside we can already mount our connector again, and also pull up and from the outside you can feel it again and get it right. So now we are out there. And now we can lock that again, done, that’s it from the inside and now we’re putting the plug back together, because that’s part of it again. Once complete, so that’s it, it locks again and now we can do all the cable stuff then carefully reinsert down here. Now we have to tighten the cable a bit, so and that’s it, that’s the cable, now we have the cable in here already. And can lay the cable completely behind to this sleeve and from there then split on the tweeter and on the woofer. But now let’s close it up again. And now close. So that’s it and now we can reintroduce that, first up here and ran it back down, that’s it. The tab on it again, then lock down, end. Now we have the cable in it. In our case, we actually only need one cable, not one extra for the woofer and tweeter to pull separate in the door, because what we install here is a passive system, that is a connection and that splits up for tweeter and woofer, so far only plus and minus put in for the whole speaker system. The respective crossovers that the woofers and tweeters need are in the cable switch, in the upgrade system in there, so we do not really have to worry about it, but I’ll show it again when we connect it or mention something else. Since we have it there again, that everything is together. So and now we drive through it again, we do that thing again. Here we put silicone spray, so it really pulls through. So, put it in. Ready, supply here. In the variant that a original VW loudspeaker system is already installed, we would also have the matching mating connector, there it is then really easy and we have to now think about the plugs, we do not have to counter, this on our variant, where we have just pulled the cable in, so far, we have to think about how to do that and i’m doing a Y-connection here, so we’ll put a Clamp on here, that we have 2 connections, one for the tweeter and one for the woofer and the woofer, we will put now together with crimping connector here and this again as a connection and then we can put it together and with the tweeter we do it the same way, so we remove the prepared plugs that are now in the set, but are not available in our door, just get rid of it and put other connectors on it. With the tweeter we can take it all away. Crimp the connectors. The counterpart which we solder on the same side after the other cable for the woofer. And with the woofer we do it now exactly the same, then we take away the plug here now, these are both now, we have to take it together, it would also go one alone, but it’s all so prepared, we put it in in 1. And the other two also give a connection. Well, now we have that, and now we’ll do it in the vehicle, we solder now the cable on our already laid cable and then we are already very far. Open the cable a bit. Just like that and now wrap around here and once here. So, solder the whole thing. So, now we have two cables, that’s plus and minus of our tweeter. Now we could actually screw the woofer on, connect with each other, then we have tweeter connection, but we still have a little door insulation, no great for the rear doors, you know me already, it is not my motivation, but if we’re already at the rear speaker, we also do a bit of door insulation, once for the outer panel here and then we can already put the woofer in, let’s go. The woofer is already prepared, so at the back here is a sealing and vibration-free layer applied and you can put that in here now, let’s see where our holes are, so there are the holes, therefore, this is also here with the recess already and there are now in the delivery these thick screws which now also grips in the sheet already. So, wonderful is really good. And now the speaker already has the optimal distance, the right position and now we could plug in the cable here, we still have our cable switch in here and connect that with the corresponding connection. First take this here, otherwise we must extend it. Wonderful, that’s what it looks like and now We can still moor the whole here, put the cable on with bitumen tape or just as we do now with insulating material and here’s a bit more around the speaker, that’s where the emphasis is put on it and then we are with the installation finished with the woofer, then we solder the tweeter in. Now prepare the tweeter accordingly. And in such a way that it really comes to the very front, all this away. And now we still do all the securing with hot glue. The simple door insulation on such a door panel is really limited only to the very essential parts, because we can here put a rag on it and on the big surface on it, here. Because the rest of STP Insulating material, these are still the two mats, we will now attach them to the door panel and we will put now Jehnert insulating fleece on it, we can now put here even a shred. We can glue that over here. So and then we have something again. We can stick on it. From the material we also have a bit more available. Can we bring in here, take care here, there is a screw hole, do not stick over it. Then we can do something down there again. Let’s start up here. Every now and then a small corner fits in well. So, more is not necessary, door paneling finished. The rest of it is put on the door panel now, and also if possible close to the loudspeaker itself, since most of the swinging motion occurs there. Always press well. So and now we put it around the speaker, we put a few narrow strips on it. Because we can now glue in here right here to dam this plastic case too. We just saw there is even in the scope even these pads, which we can take great for the cable fix accordingly, Of course that’s a clean story. And there we go, too. Cables are all attached, all installed, speakers are on, now we rebuild the door panel, let ‘s start with our plug from down there, that’s the power window plug, that’s in there, then we have our connection here now to the tweeter and minus, we’re gonna put it all back in now. put it on, synonymous finished and nothing else hangs around here, so we start again first in the top right, then work down. So, we are already in here and now fix the clips again, which are also sitting right in front of the hole. Here below, of course, after this Lock and unlock, so that it is really in the right position, that it can go in and now we can put all the clips also align and accordingly stick them in there, they all fit very well here and now we can lock the locker and one half a turn. A quarter turn, that’s it and now we can also put our screws in. Introduce here again on this side first, then click backwards. Voila, this is door trim and speaker replaced in the Golf 7 in the rear area. We’re pulling now the speaker cable from the B-pillar down the cable harness over the sill panel and assemble the whole thing away now so that we are at the Radio shaft and we have to screw the screwdriver in there in the back to open a clasp in here in the back. The clasp, that must, how did we have her now, so she was around, that’s how it works and i can solve the clasp like this and now i can remove the clips down there as well. Now i can take that away and now the whole upper part will come out, we can hang it up, so and now we’re here, now we can hang it out too. Yes, hang out and now we can get up there with the cable, these are other cables like that and we have to go now once across to the radio shaft. So, what was here, i can hang out, so i’m at least there around back, i can drive without any of it over here. Here now we can put away with our side panel, because we can get in there. And now we do not have to forget to loosen a screw in there. If we have already everything in the hand, we can stow it, now we come in here even further, now we can take the screw out back there. Ok, that’s just plugged in, wonderful, you can put it back up afterwards. Now we can also go quite comfortably into the radio shaft, that’s what we do now, screws all to me. So, we can put it clean on it. And now we come up there, everything in there with the cables, okay, that’s here. Well, we can pull it off. Now we are already down here with the cable and now we see that we can still pass the cable through here, so wonderful and now we are already in the radio shaft, we also have the glove box removed to lay the right side as well, as how to remove the glove box, you’ll find in the video where we also install the car radio, where the DVD player here with in the glove box is included and how to upgrade the radio also in this video, we have skipped this now, because now we are specifically about the two cables here to retrofit which now belong in the quadlock-plug here. Then we need this locker now so take out unlock, so now we pack our cables to the main cable vein to it, get it in the right length, may be a little bit longer, so and now we can also provide them with our new pins, with ISO pins. So if you look at the plug now, that’s the right side and that’s the left side, you have to just hold the plug and now we have the right side, yes this is here, my cable coming from the right, i go here on the minus on it. On this also in. Now according to the left on this side and then plus. In, now we can put the whole plug back in here, wait, in theory, we could also leave that, has not too much use in practice, but let’s push the lock in and in with it and now we have the rear speakers wired correctly, rewired, where now here whereith just no cable were in it, if you have speakers or have a vehicle where the speakers are installed, just as here, the two outer are already occupied, because it could have been saved, because as it often happens in the Golf the rear speakers are not there, but i suspect it happens more often. If you connect at this Quadlock connection your original car radio, which before had no speaker system for the rear provided, it may be that there is no signal on the speaker output, because you have to drive to VW and by programming announce the car radio briefly, Hey you now have rear speakers, there comes out the sound, it can happen, but probably also gives the possibility that the sound is already there, by infecting it and who now puts an external new radio, not a VW radio but like we the Alpine Style device, you then already have now the whole adaptation everything provided, so that the rear speakers of course now run immediately, because just the adaptation goes directly to the Quadlock on it and thus everything would be done. For all of those, who have speakers already in the back had to really say that the upgrade system from Eton for the Golf 7 is the real power, because it has a very low installation effort, because you do not need to lay any cables and also the installation of the speakers is very very easy. For all, who have no rear speakers in there and maybe all those who now think they have speakers in the back, let’s put your head to the speakers, there may be nothing in there and at least from now i would say that more effort and the more business you have with it, the cables to put in the back is not to despise, but who is technically a bit off and likes to play and likes to say No, I’ll do it anyway, you may be even happier, because if you had now front speakers and rear had no speakers in it, but now puts our Eton upgrade speaker purely in with the cable and it’s a bit of effort, but the bass increases and sound growth is of course already clearly audible, because we have twice as much membrane area at one time in the car and the device for the Golf 7 for the speakers is also very good for producing really good bass, so you can only recommend that, both variants are really great to think about it to have a little more sound in Golf 7. I hope this video has helped you to think more about your vehicle and maybe one or the other to find what you want to do in your vehicle. I thank you for watching, you can now watch one of the two videos here and continue to inform you or we are always happy about a sub from you here on our subscription button. Thanks for watching, your Olli.

17 thoughts on “Hecklautsprecher austauschen im VW Golf 7 | Einbau Tutorial | Eton UG VW Golf 7-F/R21 | ARS24”

  1. MyPodTester says:

    Ganz schön aufwendig die hecklautsprecher nachzurüsten, aber was macht man erst wenn man voll aktiv fahren möchte 😅

  2. GumpPower says:

    Es ist wirklich widerlich das man einen Golf 7 ohne hintere Lautsprecher kaufen kann. VW wühlt mit 2 Händen in den Taschen der Käufer rum..

  3. Speedy Race says:

    Wenn man sich die Materialien von VW ansieht wird einem schlecht. Für die Preisgestaltung. Super Video. 😉

  4. Florian Floimair says:

    Top! Endlich weiß ich wie man den dämlichen Türstecker entriegelt.
    Könnt ihr eventuell noch die VW-Teile-Nummer von den Pins ergänzen? Das wäre Top!

  5. Broermaschine says:

    Ich mag die Videos sehr, weil viel und oft beschrieben wird, wie man welche Verkleidungen entfernt und präpariert. Aber dieses Löten macht mich nervös. Wieso benutzt ihr keine Frequenzweiche? So bekämen Hoch- und Tiefmitteltöner doch nur genau die Frequenzen zugespielt, die sie benötigen, um perfekt aufspielen zu können, anstatt das volle Frequenzband, wie es hier der Fall ist. Oder?

  6. hans peter says:

    Teile nr der pins bräuchte ich bitte

  7. Jürgen Gutheim says:

    Einen größeren Schraubendreher hast Du nicht gefunden😂 Da stellen sich ja meine Nackenhaare hoch🤣

  8. hans peter says:

    Die teile nr der pins währe gut beziehungsweise wenn ihr sie direkt mit im angebot habt

  9. kingtalo97 says:

    Sind das Aluminium kabel? warum?

  10. MainAuto says:

    Klasse Video, saubere Arbeit! Wenn ich was nachrüsten würde, wüsste ich wo ich hin ginge 🙂

  11. Abahatschul says:

    Dank der Videos hier schaffe ich es noch meinen Golf7 komplett auseinander zu nehmen und wieder zusammenzubauen 😉 Diesmal habe ich gelernt, wie man die Schwellerverkleidung löst. Das wird mir noch beim Einbau einer Dashcam (rear) behilflich sein.. top!

  12. Andre GT says:

    Hallo Team ARS,

    Im Video bei Stelle 21:30 verwendet Ihr Blechschrauben zur Befestigung des Lautsprechers.
    Wie groß müssen diese Schrauben sein?
    4,2 x 20 oder yy x yy ??

    Top Video, habe Mal wieder was gelernt

  13. Tim 200 says:

    Die Türverkleidung haben danach alle Kratzer sieht not gut aus 😉

  14. Gamerbrother Autofreak says:

    Mit Schrumpfschläuchen bei den Y-Verbindungen hätte es mir noch besser gefallen, könnte man den Strom eigentlich nicht bei den Kabeln der vorderen Lautsprecher abzapfen?

  15. Tobias unleash_your_runner says:

    Super Info👍 werd ich demnächst im Polo 2018 machen müssen.

  16. Shaheen Ms says:

    Audi A3 Bang & Olufsen retrofit video????

  17. Marcus Schneider says:

    Funktioniert das System auch beim 3-türer? Also, sind die Anschlüsse zur Karosserie/Verkleidung gleich? Dass der Einbau etwas anders ist, ist mir klar 🙂

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