Golf Cart Brake Job [part 1]: Installing New Brake Shoes
Golf Cart Brake Job [part 1]: Installing New Brake Shoes


[Music] Welcome to the Grok Shop and part 1 in my golf cart brake job series. In this video, I’ll show how I service the brake shoes of a 1993 Club Car. The brakes have become quite noisy and stopping on steep descents was getting kind of dicey. Be sure you check out the pertinent service manual pages for your golf cart before starting this project. One quick note: in the service manual they usually call for loosening the equalizer jam nut. I don’t usually find that’s necessary but this is it if you did. Okay, first we’ll start off by applying the parking brake. Next, we’ll chock the wheels. Since I’m also adjusting the pedal free-play and the pedal stop bumper, I’m jacking the entire golf cart up. I’ll cover these topics separately in other videos but if you’re just working on brake shoes you don’t necessarily need to do a full jack. Okay, next we’ll go ahead and loosen those rear lug nuts. Okay next we’ll go ahead and jack up that rear end. Whenever you’re jacking, of course, you want to rest it back down on jack stands. Okay, next we can remove the rear wheel and release the parking brake. Now the brake drum should slide right off if they don’t you may need to release some preload off the manual adjuster behind the brake drum probably showing how to do that here in a minute okay just for those who aren’t aware brake shoes may contain asbestos asbestos is very dangerous most newer brake shoes should be asbestos free but if yours aren’t or you’re not sure you need to protect yourself the best way to do that is with a properly rated respirator here in the US that would be a P 100 rated respirator an example of that would be like the 3m one here which has a 2-0 nine-seven filter set on it you can see it’s stamped P 100 I’ll link this in the description below if you think your brakes may contain asbestos avoid using compressed air to clean them okay next we’ll use some calipers to measure the lining thickness at each edge of the lining there’s four edges in total [Music] okay these are the results of my measurements and you can see the thinnest edge is about a tenth of an inch or two point four five millimeters so how thin should the lining on the shoe be allowed to get before you replace it right it seems like most people leave it up to the shoe manufacturer to be the determining factor and it somewhat depends on if you have bonded or riveted shoes with bonded shoes you can actually go a little bit thinner than riveted ones because the rivets will actually start to show through first but the best information I could come up with was that for golf carts with bonded shoes anywhere between one to one and a half millimeters is about the minimum and that’s really the minimum for any vehicle that I’ve ever seen usually with cars it’s two to three millimeters although I wasn’t quite at the limit it was starting to get kind of close there’s a lot of steep hills where I live and have precious cargo in my cart sometimes so I decided to pick up some new shoes I found these aftermarket asbestos free brake shoes I’ll show how they compare dimensionally to the OEM shoes I had but the price is good and the reviews have been decent my only reservation was longevity issues but I decided to take a chance I’ll post up if these start showing premature wear keep in mind there’s different brake shoes for different generations of club car and easy go to make sure you get the right one for your golf cart for those who are interested I’ll link these shoes in the description below also in the description below I’ll link my Amazon storefront which contains links to these shoes the respirator lots of the tools you’ll see me using in this video and other videos are all available at the amazon.com crock shop storefront so be sure to check that out if you’re interested this is a nice diagram I found on easy go golf cart guide.com I thought this was a pretty good explanation of the brake shoe wear pattern that you’ll see in golf carts normally so pretty much you can expect edge a to wear before the other edges okay next we want to remove the shoe retainer so we’ll just spin the shoe retainer pin so the pin flange lines up with the hole and the shoe retainer Springs okay next we need to remove the rubber dust cover boot off the adjuster off the back of the drum backing to make the adjustments you can use a seven millimeter open end wrench if you don’t have that a crescent wrench will work fine so what we want to do right now is remove all the preload from the brake shoes remove the preload by turning the adjuster in the clockwise direction until it stops turning alright if your adjuster is not turning very easily you can hit it with some Lube this is a good time to do it because you’ll have an opportunity to clean up any excess but you want to try to contain the lube just in the adjuster port there okay next we want to unseat one of the two shoes at one end I usually just unseat it at the top where the adjuster is usually once you get one shoe unseated the other shoe will come loose then you’ll have enough slack so that you can unhook one of the springs I usually unhook the top one and then the whole assembly should just come out one quick note if you plan to recycle your shoes and your trailing and leading shoes are the same like mine are I would recommend marking which ones trailing and which ones leading anyway and then reinstall them in the same location the reason I say that is as you can see the inside and outside of the shoe lining can have different wear thicknesses consequently if you swap them the contact area of the brake shoe and brake drum could go down and your brake performance could suffer okay it’s time for some cleanup I just threw all my parts into a bucket got my favorite brake cleaner out I just went to town there as you can see my break housing is pretty kicked up I went ahead and hit it with brake cleaner one time then I’ll move on to using a wire brush and screwdriver for scraping and then more brake cleaner and just keep at it till it’s cleaned up [Music] [Music] [Music] okay next we’re gonna go ahead and lube up the actuator slush slider and this is really important to the functionality of the brakes you can see even though mine are clean they’re not moving very well yet I’m going to lubricate the friction plates up with grease but before I do that I’m gonna use tri flow which is something that I use in the motorcycle realm a lot and I find it’s better than wd-40 but if you only have wd-40 it’s a good start you need something to penetrate deep down where you can’t get the grease so I like to hit it with that first and sort of wipe it down then I’ll come back with my grease once you’ve got it doused roll well with your penetrant you just want to work it back and forth a good bit till it starts moving nice and easy definitely make sure you clean up any excess Lube you don’t want any of that stuff contaminating your brake shoes if you look at the club car service manual they call for a dry graphite grease for the friction points obviously that’s a good grease to use however in this case I’m going to use a moly grease the reason I’m using moly grease is because I had some leftover from a Honda brake job I did I figure if it’s good enough for my Honda automobile it’s good enough for my golf cart but I think the takeaway is pretty much any high temperature grease will work the dry graphite the moly probably some kinds of silicone grease are fine too next we want to remove that glaze from the contact area inside the drum I’ve got a sanding pad which is a 80 grit free mm pad I think it is you could use 80 grit or 120 grit maybe sandpaper you don’t really have to sand it a lot you just want to scuff it up get that glaze off after sanding we’ll go ahead and use our brake cleaner and get that drum all cleaned out okay if you’re recycling your old shoes make sure to scuff these up as well okay now we’ll go ahead and apply some grease to the five contact points for each brake shoe there’s a contact point in the adjuster there’s three points on the drum backing and then there’s one contact point on the actuator and all we really want is a very thin coating of grease we definitely don’t want any cake äj– previously I mentioned about how these shoes have a top and a bottom if you look at the ends there’s what they call the narrow in which is the ones on the left the two on the left there and then there’s what they call a tapered in which is the two on the right the narrow end needs to go into the adjuster at the top and the taper ends go into the actuator at the bottom so it’s totally possible to put your brakes in upside down or some sort of a mixed bag and they’ll still actually work however they might not work quite as well so I wouldn’t recommend it so there’s probably a lot of different ways to install the shoes for me I like to just run the top spring first and then sort of hang the assembly over the top and then it hook a spring up to one side and note that you might have a bigger spring in a smaller spring if you do usually the bigger spring should go on top and the smaller spring would go on bottom also you can run your Springs behind or in front of the brake shoes it really doesn’t matter either way it’s fine in case you get confused you can always refer to your other wheels brakes as sort of a guide to guide you in okay next we need to get the lower spring attached to both shoes they sell quite a few gizmos to do this but you don’t really need any of that with the lower spring attached to once you just tuck in the body of the spring up behind the actuator okay here note that both shoes are seated in the adjuster at the top but only the shoe on-screen right is seated in the actuator so that gives us a little slack having that left shoe not seated yet so having this slack allows us to hook that bottom spring into both shoes okay next we want to get that left brake shoes seated in the actuator at the bottom and what I do is I use like a pair of pliers to hold the bottom of the shoe and then a big lever like this big screwdriver against the wheel hub and just kind of work it crank it pretty hard and hold your tongue the right way and with a little luck it’ll go right on there now with both shoes seated we can insert the brake retainer pin through the little hole and the brake drum backing next we can insert the brake retainer spring around the brake retainer pin sometimes it could be helpful to utilize that hole in the hub to get your finger in there and line up the spring and the pin now just clamp the pin with your needlenose and compress the spring with the screwdriver and twist it and lock it so now it’ll be pretty much rinse and repeat for the other side if you’re having trouble getting your needlenose onto the pin because you can’t get it past the hub you can actually slide each shoe back and forth about a quarter of an inch and that usually gives you just enough room to get the needle nose down to clamp on to the end of that end now I’ll just make a quick check that the shoes are centered around the drum next we can reinstall the brake drum when you first put the brake drum back on it should turn freely okay next we want to start tightening up the brakes by moving the adjuster in that counterclockwise direction several ticks and I usually go until I can just start to feel the brakes scraping once I feel a little bit of scraping I’m going to go mash on the brakes a few times when you get a mesh on the brakes that kind of has the effect of centering the shoes within the drum after that we’ll tighten it up some more and I basically keep on tightening until it becomes very difficult to turn my hand and then I’ll back it off maybe two or three tics and then mash on the brakes a couple more times once you’ve got just a very light amount of drag you’ve pretty much got it down in it might not drag evenly all the way around but with golf cart brakes this is considered normal okay next we can put our adjuster cap back on okay so that completes one side of the cart now you can go ahead and do the other side of the cart when you’re done there it’s time to go ahead and get the wheels back on next we can go ahead and lower the cart okay next we can go ahead and torque the lug nuts fifty-five to sixty pounds is usually what I use you want to go into a star pattern which yeah there’s only four bolts so it’s one and then the one across from it and then the one next to it and the one across from that okay next you want to take a test drive on a flat surface or as flat as possible to test everything out depending on how picky you are if you want both wheels locking up at exactly the same time you may have to lift it up again and dial it in make one side a little tighter one side a little looser by turning that adjuster as needed also do be aware it takes a little time for the brake shoes to bed into the brake drums so what you’ll see is braking performance will improve over some days or weeks depending on how often you ride so that’s it for this video I hope you found it helpful be sure to stay tuned for more golf cart related videos. That’show it’s done. Thanks for watching. [Music]

1 thought on “Golf Cart Brake Job [part 1]: Installing New Brake Shoes”

  1. Michael Thomas says:

    You know you put the wrong brakes shoes on that cart right?

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