Endstufe installieren im VW Golf 7 | Tutorial | ARS24
Endstufe installieren im VW Golf 7 | Tutorial | ARS24


Hello at ARS24, on our YouTube channel, we’ll show you today how to install a power amplifier and lay all of the cable in a Golf 7. We install a Stage 6 power amplifier by Eton and show you the cable glands from the battery from the engine compartment to the interior, how to lay all the cables to the car radio and where to put the power amp and capacitor in the trunk. Have fun watching. The summary of all the necessary information about your car, if it is videos and pictures or even the products that fit into your car specifically, see Find everything for your car on our website ARS24.com. Our Stage 6 is a 6 channel power amplifier which we occupy on the input side with four channels, with front and rear, because we, in the Golf 7, we are now using this as an example, so the front system is fully active, ie two channels get tweeter, two channels for the woofers, two channels on the output side gets our active woofer Eton Res 11 in the Spare tire compartment, but is controlled with our cinch outputs from the Alpine Style device, so we have no original radio in it, but a retrofit radio, in this case a Alpine, which has its own cinch outputs, which has the needed Preamp output for the KTX-PRE1, to have just the appropriate cinch outputs, we will then use our four-channel RCA from the car radio shaft to the power amplifier. We have our cable kit V20 fully copper, we use it to ensure the power supply from the battery to the power amp in the trunk. In the trunk there will be then additionally our power cap, PCap from Audio System, that will be installed and the cable kit from the Res 11, this is included from our spare tire subwoofer in the packaging, since we will use parts of it and run it through our sound processor from our Stage 6, so setting up and we would now, because this is our demonstration vehicle, we have also the option to not let the specially built in channels 5 and 6 run through the active woofer, but just through a separate woofer, instead of driving over channels 5 and 6 to the active woofer. Thus, we are here a bit more flexible when demonstrating in our shop, otherwise there would be a stage 4 at this point because we only need four channels, two tweeters, two Woofers, we’re at 4 and the output at Stage 4, which is then just for channel 5 and 6 would run into such an active woofer or another power amplifier, we take here just for us to demonstrate the Stage 6, it does make sense, otherwise you could also use a Stage 4. We also added the rear speakers, there is a video of it, as well as we laid the cables, they run normally through the car radio, they do not get their own Amplifier channel via the stage amplifiers and we have made a video for the stage amplifiers, if you are interested in these amplifiers, you can of course watch the other videos and we’ll be doing a video about the Res 11, to just show the product itself in more detail. Let’s talk about cable carrying from the battery into the vehicle interior and where to put the fuse holder from the power cable, we now take the battery out and then we see a bit more. Down there we have to solve the 13. Then we can take out the battery here. And now let’s have a look what that brings with it. In the back we have at least once an unused rubber sleeve which we can now use to pull our cable through. Here we have our rubber sleeve and here we put a hole in, so that we can pull through the power cable and do the same accordingly tight, I’ll show you how to do that. So and then we can put a cross here, make a cut. And now we can pull the cable through. So, that’s outside, let’s go through it like that. So now we can cut that down to how long the passage must be, so that we can clamp it in front here clean on our pole terminal or in the space provided for it and there is still the backup in between and then there comes bitumen tape in between. The passageway is so big that we even get the cable from here by throwing almost in, We’ll put it here. Now we look at it, where we can lay the cable. You can pass the battery sideways and here we have our pole, so not the battery pole itself, but we go here on these parts on it and you can out that there. And then put a fuse holder here, the cable will come out there. The right position for the rubber sleeve we have now cut off properly, so to speak and now we tighten the rubber again with bitumen tape. The bitumen tape seals the whole thing again, if we pull this over here now. Well and now we can introduce the whole thing from the inside and push through the hole and from the inside against it again to stuff it so to speak. So, inside, i am now completely through and now we can put it all in. And we can now put that cable down here. Under the carpet. So that’s it, lid on it again. The cover on it and now the water protection rubber sleeve and now we can unisolate it. Here we remove the inner sleeve, that’s for 10 qmm, so now we can put this in here and now we can put the sleeve over from behind, so to speak, it will tighten itself afterwards and the whole from the other side. Then we can assemble the fuse switch so far and the fuse comes in at the very end, if the power amp is connected properly, before we get here during the assembly any short circuit with the cable, but so we have the fuse switch fixed. Here it does not really work in this direction, because the part is really stuck here, then we drive the whole cable directly right at the bottom into the fuse box. Now we can do that from the side. So we do it now. Well, it looks quite good and the only thing we have to do now, we can put that here again and that will probably not be that easy now exactly, because here is still a nose on it, which is inside here and now we do not even bother, now i’m doing such a U here. It goes down and on. Then pull a cable tie over it. Now pull the power cable backwards, right under the whole fairing parts, we can now also put the cable right down in the the carpet area in, because up there it could eventually become too thick at some point, let’s drive down here. And now we are already here, we have to come out with the cables, we put them on the plane, all over here. Take the whole thing down here. We can leave that this way. We now have laid on the driver’s side the power cable, in our installation, we have laid prematurely the wiring from the rear speakers on the driver’s side under the steering wheel to the radio shaft and placed it on the passenger side, now, of course, we’ll lay our cinch line in from the radio bay over the glove box or behind the glove box, back to the trunk, to the power amp and back from the power amp for our front doors for the woofers, now let’s put in two wires, because they will be our two woofers, that’s basically the same way, we’ll put it all together and our tweeters which we have separately installed, which are also wired directly to the power amp, that cable i have already put on the driver’s side and once on the passenger side to the rear. So, let it hang out about here, so that we can infect here afterwards and the speaker cable for the woofers go on here now, let’s leave that here, we have to do that with the lines that are already here, they go to the doors and we have to connect them with each other, but now we put the cables in. And here we can now drive directly below the carpet, that we just have more space there. Now i have to think about it with the cable, we can now drive over here under the carpet, so that we can get out of it where we want to get out. The cables are long enough. So, we can pull it all back under the backseat and our tweeter cable from the side. Our RCA cable, so it’s really easy on the Golf. Let’s just leave it that way and now we can do it here too our cable Fix accordingly, otherwise it will fly somewhere through the area. Far away enough of this sapwood here. Well, that looks pretty clean. Belt anchors are of course always popular mass, because they go directly to the frame, here as well, because we can put that thing on here and our eyelet for that is in the 20 square power cables kit. Let’s put that on here, that is also so directly in the scope of delivery of our cable kit, with the large eyelet. Super easy. We have to be a little careful here, there’s still a bit of a jam in the back, it definitely has to be on the left, like here. So now we can put the cable right through here. So structurally, that’s really easy with the car. In the cable kit V20 i have just introduced, is always a cinch cable, five meters 2 channel RCA cable and we also have our four channels in a RCA cable now, we have this Cinch cable extra and thus do not need the 2 channel RCA cable in this case and what did we forget to install, the remote line to turn it on in front of the power amp, i have to throw it in later. Cables are now all in the trunk but now we have to think of where do we install the rest now, we have a spare wheel here, a Spare wheel well, a very flat one, but here would be the trunk floor, which is quite cool in the Golf 7 because it is just on two stations to use in this case, we sacrifice the first station here and hang it on the second one and i would say from the position somehow here, so we install the power cap and the power amp and we create a small assembly board that is in there, that we can screw in nicely and can also be use to wire accordingly beautiful there. Normally there is a spare wheel in there, if i’m accordingly use our woofer afterwards with the spare wheel woofer they can be in link, we do not have that in the vehicle at all, we have a tire pilot, in this case, but still, if the spare wheel is inside here, this would go in without a hitch, we now put a plate here, it will be 19 centimeters of depth, that we overlap a bit over the edge here and we fix it afterwards on the plastic parts. So, the rest, we still adjust, we have yet to cut something, but let’s do that in the car. Now let’s put it in, now, as the first time, we have to take something away, the rounding here, well, that goes here, so. That looks good and now we have to go back there Take that away as well, that means here we have to take away two centimeters in at this point, but the place slips a bit down, we’ll do that first. So, now we have about here our clipping where we are coming in two centimeters up to this point. That’s practically this thing here and then it goes out again five and a half centimeters, five and a half are here, then it goes with it five and a half behind, so in this case 7.5 from the whole edge, are here, so we have here now this and back he comes out again, we must make the bow, the bow comes here and then go goes then this way, we’ll do it now on good proof of judgment, so now we put that in there, look at this, i have cut it a bit less everywhere, so i now better assess this, but in fact, that fits, that must be cut away again, then we’ll get down again 1.5 centimeters and then we’ll be right there on the line and that back there, that was actually well, so my eye was really pretty cool. Now that looks good, there is now everywhere cover fabric on it and now we do a bracket, a short part of it here. Where we can put a screw in here and the same thing we do here in the back. That i can screw in here and then i have the thing, that comes there, that comes out there. So, wood glue. So and now we could relate it with black felt i would say and then the holes, let’s drill in right now. Black fabric, of course also available from us, as well as the spray adhesive and now we have here our piece we have to be able to get that trimmed. So, and now You can confidently put that on top of it, spray the edges of course. Well, then we can put it back that way and that over it, if we are right, yes, we can move on everything. Here we have to get started and then there. And now we can spray the edge from the side. Well, there are a few key points that we have to cut open. Our fabric can be pulled around the corners. It still has to dry a bit on the inside, but of course you can work it up pretty quickly. Our power amplifier mounting plate. That’s what it looks like now when we put it in. Screw in, screw in, fix. Mounting plate is now really firm and you can also rate it as a mounting plate and now let’s see how we put the things in this way, i would go as close as possible, so that we can fix here our cables, the capacitor, there we have a problem now. Okay, okay, okay, i missmeasured myself, i forgot something that our capacitor of course now comes even higher if we make a plate in and here is already our record support from the trunk lid, but we know now to manage, we now cut out a corresponding slot to the Condenser here to sink properly and then we come this centimeter in any case further down. And now everything on the side. So, cut away the fabric. Then I would say let’s put the cables together with the fabric tape so that it looks nice, we can put now the signal cable and the remote cable from the front until behind in a loop, so. With subwoofer cable. Now i almost forgot my remote. Just so thin lines you will not get over the fabric tape or into the fabric afterwards. Well, we can do that down to the bottom. Our cinch lead, we will somehow again, we connect the same time, channel 1, channel 2. Channel 3, channel 4 input. Let’s connect the speaker cables to the power amp, we have the ones here now two thinner cables, these are our tweeter connections right and left, there we put Vein pimples on it, so then we can also use the same plus and minus, then we have minus here, right in it. On the bridge circuit. So the remote has to go on it. So, now we have the first part already wired and now comes the power supply. Let’s get to the power cable and the power cable we drive now in the first Condenser with our main power supply and we can now here on this side at minus and at plus first, so at minus here and plus there. Let’s start with the supply line. So, minus, here we go up with the minus. So, that’s our power distributor too and now we can drive in there with our plus, so we’ll make it pretty short here too. Well, there we have our supply, so to speak, and now we’re leaving to the power amp and our active woofer, we can actually connect to it. In our case, we also include an active power supply, which means that it needs a power supply, too quite small, so we have here practically as mass supply only two such thin cables, we pack right now with here in our vein sleeve in. And now on our mass right on it. And we do the same with plus. We can do that in there as well. So, let’s go on, that there, that looks pretty neat. Now it’s all going to be a harness and so that looks like something and that is a bit beautiful, let’s put that together again. Back there is our fuse from our active woofer, well, these two cables now go into the power amp and the rest goes on to the active woofer, but now you can leave it that way. Until here this is all pretty. That’s our connection cable now for the Active Subwoofer, we have our power cable in here now, we have our Ground cable in there, we have the cinch cable from our Stage 6, which comes out, we regulate with the processor of the power amplifier and this is a connection cable where we just had a line-in. Now this comes not in question for us, because we just connect with RCA, this remains empty with us. And it is also a external regulator in the subwoofer, where we can adjust the level and the frequency, that makes sense if i had an original radio, which has no subwoofer output and where i could not regulate, we in our system have everything for the controlls, a separate subwoofer output, with which we do everything, so we take this controller we do not even obstruct, but if you had an original radio, you could lie down somewhere in front of the driver’s area and build it in, where you could set everything up then. That’s exactly how it must look. Then we cut off so that it fits, we can take that way. That has to go in there. That’s the one and also according to this one. Really nice pure press. So, at plus exactly the same game. So now we only have our Remote cable, the remote cable. Well, and both in, good and now you can do all our cable work from here go through there, it disappears and becomes invisible. So, trick 17 with bitumen tape. If we screw something in vertically, we’ll make it nice here first. At the connection of the car radio we have our Quad-Lock connection and our new 2 Speaker cables, where we now want to go on our front woofers on it and we find here in our Quad-Lock connection, here are the middle 2, the two exteriors are retrofitted by us, these are the rear speaker connections and there in the middle of it, we need those. How can we now get off to a good start without having to do anything on the original plug? We have like every car radio which we now have to install, a CAN bus connection or an ISO connection, where we are now here on the connections pack on it and now we have all our connections here again and there we have our 2 front speaker outputs again and we still have to adapt, so that we can get the connection from the power amp to the Front woofer. So, front right woofer, front left woofer and you can now pack together with crimp connector accordingly. Blue two and a half square squeezer. and the same with 1.5 square red nippers with the counterpart. For the Woofer leading cable. So now we have two white plus and minus on the front right and front left here. And now we have made this connection directly to our woofers and here the tail cable, which we still have to isolate because the car radio has still the 4 x 50 watts on it, because we are using the back two Speaker outputs for our rear speakers here, that means there’s still voltage on the signal, and so that nothing happens anymore, we just shut them up. What we also connected behind here was our remote line, which we find here again, we have misplaced and this is our remote control signal from the car radio, which leads just 12 volts, as soon as i turn on the car radio, i would also like that now my power amp is turned on, so we now put here a connection, also with a crimp connector. That’s it. For our Alpine Style device, we have for our cinch cables an extra cable, The KTX-PRE1 and there we have our exits for our own subwoofer output adjustable as cinch and we take the front signal in this case, front-out, that’s our other pair and Rear stays free in this case we did not occupy it at the moment, the rear speakers are running over our Car Radio, but i need the connection now on my car radio from the Alpine Style device to connect. Everything installed, we can now go through again, what we all have installed. We have the capacitor built in, so that in addition the current for the Power amplifier buffers, so that the Voltage peaks can be driven and also really the full power in the amp can arise, that means even if the power amp has a high efficiency, especially the Stage 6, is it anyway in the goodness Recommended to install an additional capacitor, so that we really have the perfect sound in the bass range. Stage 6 which does make here now the two tweeters front right and left, the two woofers right and left, in the front system. That’s our subwoofer connection for our Additional installation, if we have a passive subwoofer in this car which we want to connect now, we have just two options, on the one hand we have the spare wheel well woofer as an active variant, which would need this speaker output not at all, but if i say i want to show something different now, putting in a bass box to show just how good the one or the other woofer sounds, we can of course now do that with our second port, we do not need it in everyday life right now, but still doing this show and that’s why we now have the Stage 6 in there instead of a Stage 4, with the variant we installed in this car now installed optimally would just work and just now here our active woofer, the RES11, which actually, if there was a spare wheel in here, it would fit in exactly here and would do its work and services. To connect the Eton’s active subwoofer, the RES11, i’ve actually missspoke myself with the stage 6 power amplifier, the Stage 6 amplifier has just channel 5 and channel 6 left and i thought as an exit, but that is the stage 6, of course, only the input line, the RCA line, can practically only be used to continue to adjust the speaker output from the power amp via the processor and not in principle now for the RES11, because we drive Cinch moderately from the car radio directly, so i have here again put a Y-cable and practically share this Cinch cable on where it comes directly from the car radio as a woofer channel, drive once over the Y-cable here, drive so to speak now once in the final stage for the application if i like to use the built-in channel 5 and 6 of the power amplifier with another passive woofer and the Y-cable, I’m branching off here now just once with the same signal directly to Subwoofer, drive to RES11 with our RCA output from the car radio and can then change the settings on the car radio for the subwoofer, but not the processor settings, but i think for the application here the active woofer in the spare wheel, it does not actually play a great role, you should perhaps pay attention to the Car radio, if it has one or the other setting on the car radio for a subwoofer or just then with the remote control from Eton where we just synonymous change the filter, adjust it between 50 and 100 hertz or even the phase of the woofer can be turned 180 degrees directly and of course i also have a gain control with which i can make the subwoofer loud and quiet. Quite cool is now in the two variants we can demonstrate in the vehicle once the active woofer and once a passive woofer as a spare wheel over the speaker outputs, we can now switch back and forth, how my front system to the subwoofer acts with the two different profiles that i can save on the power amplifier as a setting, once because of me with passive woofer in the spare wheel in it or another passive woofer or if you say no, I like the active woofer now accordingly with driven, then i can adjust my settings accordingly, that they switch with a switch once the profile for active woofer and once the profile for the built-in amplifier of the stage 6 can be run. Connected now everything, now we can also out our fuse in and and give it some power. First of all we have to look again at the condenser, if it gets charged and we have our charging lamp, so in each capacitor is a small lamp, we pinch here directly with our charging lamp on it and so now the thing, the lamp, has to go out first, yeah. He is already fully loaded. It belongs in there. You have to put it through, so that you can connect it from the side. And now the whole thing back into the housing. Once there, once the case back, so ready. Fuse is now in there, so we can put our base plate in here, agile as it is and here the whole now tucked away and there we actually have enough air because of our capacitor. I hope i could take you a little bit the fear of your own car too do something on your own, i showed you today how to get from the battery, from the engine compartment, into the interior, how to get rid of the sill panels, how to lay the cables, how to remove the glove box, so actually there is nothing left to say, i’ll do it now, it can not go so wrong. Olli shows how it works. If you have any questions you can also call us and i would like to thank you for watching. I wish you much fun while copying, you can now watch two more videos we have prepared for you and a subscription via the subscription button here would make us happy too. See you then, your Olli.

48 thoughts on “Endstufe installieren im VW Golf 7 | Tutorial | ARS24”

  1. Marvin Gregor says:

    Hey kleine Frage

    Wie teuer währe das jetzt zusammen mit Einbau von euch ❓

  2. Postkutschkastenkutscher says:

    gibt es bei euch auch was anderes ausser vw golf

  3. Caesar Sancezz says:

    Kann mich noch erinnern, wie 1, 2, fix das alles damals noch im Polo 3 erledigt war.

  4. Speedy Race says:

    Und wie Befestige ich denn Aktivwoofer??? Oder flutscht der Seelen ruhig da hinten bei jeder Kurve Hin und Her

  5. Jonah Schmitz says:

    Bisher hielt ich euch für ein tolles Unternehmen, aber was ich hier gesehen habe geht nicht, abisolieren mit Seitenschneider und Kabelschere und keine einzige Aderendhülse gecrimpt. Beim Sicherungshalter wurden sie sogar komplett weg gelassen. Und ich hatte schon überlegt ob ich meinen Golf 4 mal in eure Hände gebe. Ihr könnt es doch besser, vor allem mit so viel Know-how, dann macht es doch bitte auch so und achtet auf solche wichtigen Kleinigkeiten.

  6. Flo spielt says:

    Mal eine Frage: Wieso crimpt ihr die Kabel in den Aderendhülsen nicht fest sondern lasst sie da so locker drin?

  7. 3RR0R says:

    Welche Endstufe würdet ihr für den Eton FORCE 12-800BR empfehlen die genug Power hat?

  8. Tobi_688 says:

    So die arbeit möchte ich nicht kritisieren ,aber bitte halte euch bei der Verlegung vom Stromkabel nicht an diesem Video fest,denn diese Variante bei jedem Golf 7 kann nur gemacht werden ,wenn man ein DSG fährt ansonsten ist diese gummitülle nicht vorhanden weil da dass Kupplungspedal drin steckt,aber 5cm weiter rechts liegt der Kabelbaum vom Golf:)

    Grüße Tobi:)

  9. playerzoma says:

    wann kommt dein audi olli?

  10. SebMerc68 says:

    Damit ich das richtig verstehe, das Minuskabel, welches an den Kondensator angeschlossen wird, ist das Massekabel, welches am Gurtpunkt befestigt wurde, richtig?

  11. drohnen.media says:

    Welche Stärke haben den die original Batterieanschlusskabel von VW? Das Stromkabel zum Sicherungskasten und das Massekabel zur Karosserie sehen viel dünner als das 20qmm Kabel aus.

  12. Julian says:

    38:12 Paar € Für en gutes Auspinnwerkzeug ausgeben und die Pins einfach rausmachen, anstatt mit Iso zu Isolieren 😉

  13. Tobi says:

    Wie teuer käme mich denn das ganze? Also Material und Einbau zusammen? Alles genau so wie bei eurem Golf nur eben mit der Stage4.

  14. habo2541 says:

    umbau im Astra https://www.imagebanana.com/s/769/6XG4iHQW.html wie immer top bei ars24

  15. wir481 says:

    Geile sache ich kann jetzt meinen Golf auch machen, arr misst ich hab ja einen Amarok

  16. Michael Kreuzer says:

    Überall liest man, max 30cm nach der Batterie muss die Sicherung sitzen, hier sind es locker 50cm. Allzumal das Kabel nochmal "heimlich" verlängert wurde als es um den Anschluss im Sicherungskasten ging, weil es sonst nicht gepasst hätte. Wurde nur nicht gezeigt. Ist das korrekt? Man vergleiche die Kabellänge von Ringschuh bis Sicherungshalter bei 8:37 und bei 9:16….Ich möchte niemandem aufn Schlips treten aber seltsam ist das schon…..

  17. fellpower says:

    Und da ist es wieder, das Bitumenband. Sehr professionell. 😉

    Und nicht wieder ernsthaft alle Aderendhülsen aufm Bock gequetscht? Man Olli, kauf dir endlich ne Aderendhülsen Quetschzange….Oder NUTZE sie….Das ist einfach unprofessionell.

  18. M8 Beats says:

    Wie immer ein sehr informatives Video. Super erklärt, so macht das Anschauen Spaß :).

  19. Marcel Hey says:

    wie ist den der sound

  20. Manuel Lochbrunner says:

    Der moment wenn es ein laie besser machen würde als ein "profi" Selten so viel Pfusch und falsche Informationen in einem Video gesehen!!! Und dafür auch noch ne Menge Geld verlangen … unglaublich

  21. bleifuss80 says:

    Ich könnte kotzen wenn ich das sehe und dann nennt sich das Profis. Gurte und Gurtschlösser sind besondere Bauteile, eine neue Mutter und Schraubensicherung ist Pflicht . Setzt euch noch einmal auf die Schulbank und spart nicht an der Sicherheit euer Kunden.

  22. gtr1911 says:

    Junge Junge, pfusch Pfusch

  23. TheFunnyPlayer2 says:

    Da baut man ne neue Anlage… und ignoriert einfach den Mitteltöner.. ufff…. alles für die katz

  24. serj by spirit says:

    Der sleev der Kabel ist absoluter mist…. Da könntest du mal bisl üben…

  25. Wolfgang Wichmann says:

    Cooles Video! Warum muss man den Kondensator laden?

  26. Peterpunshline says:

    Mach doch bitte mal ein Video über das genaue einstellen der ETON Stage 4 und 6 inkl. Flankensteilheit etc.

  27. LM10 True World Cup Winner 2014 says:

    Hier sind so viele Profis die mit den Mund alles nur können. Unglaublich macht es erstmal besser bevor ihr über die Leute von ars redet.

  28. Daniel Werner says:

    Hi Ars24 Team und Hi Olli ich hab eine besondere frage ich habe ein Radio pioneer fh-x840dab und eine pioneer gm-d9601 und man hat mir den subwoofer ts-wx306b da ich all deine Videos geschaut hab bin ich der Meinung mit den woofer war es ein fehl Kauf denn irgendwas passt nicht aber meine Frage ist kannst du mir mal tips zu richtigen Einstellung geben da ich verwirrt bin es ist ne monoblock hat aber 2 Kanal Ausgang dann mit den Frequenzen kannst du mir da bitte helfen und evtl. besseren subwoofer empfehlen fals notwendig Danke im voraus

  29. Chez Tr says:

    Geil 😂

  30. starsi says:

    bei Minute 6:20, wie bekommt man das schwarze teil(die vordere Kunststoffplatte) vor den Anschlüssen (das, in den der Deckel einrastet) am leichtesten ab? Einfach nach oben wegziehen?

  31. Nicola Ranieri says:

    Hallo
    Sie haben mit SEAT LEON 5F gearbeitet'

  32. Maksimovic Branko says:

    Danke für das geiles Video hat wirklich weitergeholfen 👍🏽

  33. Recht vor Links! says:

    Braucht man bei digitalen Endstufen überhaupt noch einen Kondensator?

  34. Marcel Ranig says:

    also das mit dem Y-Kabel und dem Schalter hätte ich noch einmal genauer, zwecks Verkabelung, Danke

  35. Marcel Ranig says:

    kann man den RES 10 A genau so anschließen?

  36. Marcel Ranig says:

    warum nimmst du die ISO Pins nicht einfach komplett aus dem Stecker bei 38:00 min?

  37. WoTuM TV says:

    Die Aderenhülsen muss man eig. Pressen, gibt eine spezielle Zange dafür. 😉 Bin Elektriker 🙂

    Und man darf keine 2 Leitungen in eine Aderendhülse packen. 🙂

    Sowie das adaptieren von 1,5mm2 und 2,5mm2 ist verboten. Ist ja auch technisch gesehen sinnfrei, es geht ja nach dem schwächsten Glied, indem Fall 1,5mm2 da bringt die 2,5mm2 Leitung nichts.

  38. Dimitar Milchev Paskov says:

    si lo hases con una pbroca mejor no con el cuter

  39. Pascal Höfer says:

    hy hab einen vw golf 7 variant komfortline bj2014 wie komm ich da mit dem strom kabel rein weil der hat das gummi teil nicht und wenn ich von außen bei der batterie schau ist es da aber es gehen 2 leitungen durch

  40. Recht vor Links! says:

    Digitale Verstärker brauchen nicht mehr soviel Saft;Braucht man da wirklich noch einen Kondensator zur Spannungsstabilisierung?

  41. Optixx says:

    was würde das ungefähr kosten? Verstärker und Sub ist schon vorhanden? Könnt ihr das so pauschal sagen?

  42. Kevin Kalyciok says:

    Für was braucht man einen Kondensator?

  43. Ben Brenner says:

    Kann man sich die Montage Platte einfach im Baumarkt anfertigen lassen ?

  44. jan6621 says:

    Hi ARS 24 Team ,
    Könnt ihr mir bitte sagen welche Farben am Quadlockstecker am Golf 7 die Plus-/Masse-/ und Lautsprecherkabel haben ? Ich möchte ein Hi/Lo Adapter anschließen und finde dazu im Internet leider nichts.. Vielen Dank im voraus!!

  45. Robert Götz says:

    Könntest du wenn du ein extra Video über den Subwoofer machst von Eton auf dein Pioneer TS wx 610 drauf ein gehen vergleichen den das eine Video von dir ist schon sehr alt

  46. Giuseppe deGennaro says:

    A prescindere che il positivo va sulla batteria e no sulla centralina per il resto non gli e lo farei mai fare a uno del genere un impianto hi fi

  47. T R says:

    Absolute Hölle, das selber nachzubauen.
    Das Video suggeriert, "hier und da mal ne Schraube lose, ein bisschen Teppich hochklappen, Kabel reinwerfen, alles kein Problem und dabei das Auto kein bisschen beschädigt."
    Scheiße was!
    Rate dringend ab, das nachzubauen.
    15:23
    ⚠️ Eton GmbH weist in der Einbauanleitung ausdrücklich darauf hin, Sicherheitsgurtschrauben niemals als Massepunkt zu verwenden. ⚠️

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