Blue Sea Systems Battery Switch 5511e & ACR 7610 | 6 Volt Battery Bank Diagram in Series & Parallel
Blue Sea Systems Battery Switch 5511e & ACR 7610 | 6 Volt Battery Bank Diagram in Series & Parallel

Hey, this video is basically a rundown of what I learned and the process I went through to replace our battery bank in our sailboat. I couldn’t find all the information I needed in one spot, so that’s what I’m trying to provide here. This is the complete diagram of what I ended up with and by the end of the video I will have walked through the steps it took to get there and provide more in-depth diagrams as well. There seems to be an endless amount of disagreement online about how to do these things and what to do. This seems like a very straightforward situation And I can’t find it anywhere on YouTube or Google that lays it out and explains it well. Oh, I could make a video like that… except I have no …. idea how to do it! [Snappy Intro Music] We are super excited to change our battery bank. it’s been three years that we’ve been nursing the batteries that they told us we needed to get rid of when we got the boat. So we’re gonna put four six volt golf cart batteries in here And I still have to do a little research on whether to get a deep cycle start battery or not. So I’m gonna go and check that out [Music] [Jen] Goodbye old batteries, you’ve served us well. [JD] getting rid of the Spaghetti Factory. What do you think about all this? I’m excited Yeah It’ll be nice to know that after a weekend at Anchor, that the boat will start. While it brings a certain level of excitement and adventure to going out it’ll be nice to know that we’ll be able to get home. Since I had the room I decided to replace this group 27 starting battery with a little bit larger group 31. Running down and labeling all these electrical lines provided invaluable information in getting to know this important system in our boat. By replacing these two batteries rated at a total of 212 amp hours with the four six volt golf cart style batteries at 215 amp hours each, we’ll increase our total to four hundred and thirty amp hours. What are you guys doing? [Ruby] Clean up. It’s day two of the battery bank rebuild and I’ve got to admit. It’s not going as smoothly as I’d hoped. Here’s my book… This is, uh, Charlie Wing. It’s supposed to be the easiest, like really low level, best best book you can get for for this type of boat work. And I’ve talked to people about it, and they say this is really simple, there’s nothing to it. It’s really simple. But It isn’t simple! [Jen laughing] Hi You look amazing. I don’t…uh… I appreciate that. I don’t feel all that great. I think I’ve spent a bunch of money, six or eight hundred bucks, yeh, 600 bucks on batteries and I’ve hooked them up wrong I think, and the boat won’t start. [More laughing from Jen] Bonus new batteries I’m perplexed on wiring and how it all works like much of the boat work I do my battery bank project took much longer than I wanted it to. I took numerous runs to the chandlery for this project, talked to a lot of different friends, found a lot of different articles online and some of the videos I found, I’m gonna share in the links below that I thought were the most helpful. The most helpful thing for me really was drawing out the sketches, the diagrams. Diagram after diagram until I finally figured this project out. I think… I’ll go start the engine now. We’ll see. In the meantime here the diagrams outlining: How to wire two battery banks, one 12-volt starting battery and four six volt golf cart style batteries, in series and parallel. How to wire the Blue Sea Systems Add a Battery Kit 120 A, which includes the 5511e series Dual Circuit Plus Blue Sea Systems Battery Switch, and the Blue Sea Systems ACR 7610(Automatic Charger Relay). Also the Marinco ChargePro Dual 10 Amp Charger, as well as how to connect all the above to the alternator, starter and electrical panel. And hey this next slide should be obvious to everyone. It’s a really good idea to get professional advice before you start doing any of these things yourself. So here’s the way that I learned to connect four 6-volt golf cart batteries in series and in parallel. First off, the top two batteries represent house bank A with the bottom two batteries representing house bank B. First, hook the positive to the negative between the two top six volt batteries, to basically form one 12 volt battery. And same goes for the bottom batteries a positive to the negative between two six volt batteries to form a 12 volt battery. Then I ran my negative to negative between house banks A and B to form a parallel connection and did the same with the positive. I then connected my positive lead to my Blue Sea System Switch on the number one position… the stud at the bottom. At the negative, I took that lead to the negative bus bar. Feel free to pause here for the full diagram of how I wired my four six volt golf cart batteries in series in parallel. AH, and here it is, the finished diagram. A wise man once said, “It always seems impossible until it’s done.” I gotta admit though for all the frustration I did really enjoy the whole project. If you see anything on this diagram that looks amiss, please let me know in the comment section below. But until then here we go… [Diesel engine cranking…AND STARTING!] [Hooo hooo! Beer opening sound] Not a bad way to finish the day. Have you ever replaced a battery bank, did you find it frustrating, or is it just me? Let me know in the comments below, and if you found this video helpful or you want to see me make an ass of myself more often just hit the subscribe button. And don’t forget to hit the little bell beside the subscribe button to get the most current uploads as I put them out!

26 thoughts on “Blue Sea Systems Battery Switch 5511e & ACR 7610 | 6 Volt Battery Bank Diagram in Series & Parallel”

  1. Tight Little Tribe Sailing says:

    We learned a lot on this project! Hope the diagrams help some folks. If you have experience with wiring, is there anything in here you would set up differently?

  2. Bullseye says:

    Hi Guys, It all looks good, great video. If you need anymore advice or help, or just want someone to check your work, the best electrical guy is right there at Berkeley Marine center. His name is Howard Keiper, and he is by far the most fun and knowledgeable guy that I have ever had the pleasure of working with. He is from the old think, plan and do it right, generation. He works on everything electrical for boats. If you talk to Howard tell him I said hi!, he is like family to me now. Take care, Blair

  3. Ashley Wallace says:

    JD!! This is AWESOME!!! Great job! And hey, just so you know, we rewired our batteries and installed an inverter with a certified marine electrician and we STILL found it frustrating. You're not alone.
    Love your videos.

  4. Lara Scriba says:

    Amazing job JD!!

  5. Tight Little Tribe Sailing says:

    UPDATE!!! Since posting this I have found the 10Amp charger to be insufficient due to constant loads from our refrigerator and other items on our boat. As suspected, I need to install a larger battery charger. I will update after I've purchased, installed and tested the new charger. As usual, I'd love to know if anyone has any suggestions!!!

  6. SV INDRA says:

    Wing nuts? – you might want to review ABYC Standard E-10, paragraph 10.8.3, Battery cables and other conductors size 6 AWG and larger shall not be connected to the battery with wing nuts. You also might want to double check if your cable size is large enough since you increased your battery bank amperage.

  7. Expedition Vehicle Adventure says:

    Hey guys, I know you have completed you install but I would highly recommend Pacific Yacht Stystems' You Tube channel. Jeff has a bunch of exceptional videos on boat electrical systems.

  8. captaingordon says:

    Yes, these projects take about 10 times longer than planned!

    I just finished moving 3 start batteries from my houseboat’s engine compartment to the adjacent storage room, so as to gain more ease and access to engine maintenance work. I upgraded to AGM batteries from lead, this way I don’t have to worry about venting in a livable space nor battery fluid levels (extra maintenance).

    Not only moving the batteries reduces the engine compartment clutter (sorry sailboat operators who don’t have the space options of a houseboat), but now my batteries avoid hot summer engine compartments or being left in the cold during winter.

    I also upgraded to a ProMarine digital charger.

    I like your video! Good content, humor, and sound effects!

  9. WyrGuy2 says:

    Just watched your video and I’d have to say, for a non-electrician, it looks like you did a good job! Best advice is to never rush, always research and think it thru BEFORE turning anything on. A few bits of advice and/or questions. First is wire size. Biggest problems I run into and the hardest to try and convince people to fix is UNDERSIZED wiring! I go with the bigger is best theory and thats based on my 45 yrs of electrical industrial construction experience, marine wiring, and lastly as an Electrical Safety Officer. 12 volt DC systems I wire all have a calculated voltage drop on all feeders and circuits of a MAXIMUM of 3% based on the load ampacity, wire length (there AND back). Yes, bigger wire = more money… whats your boat worth to you AND your families safety??? The next issue is with overcurrent protection (fuses or circuit breakers) There are prescribed locations where thy are required to be installed but basically its anywhere a wire receives a connection to power and at any point where that wire is downsized (ie: circuits leaving a panel) The only one that is exempt is the conductor to the starter… but even then, I’ve been known to fuse them too, depending on the type of engine/starter. The negative return wires are NEVER fused, but with an exception and that is the negative connection to the ACR needs a fuse. The Blue Seas Systems equipment is the most convenient and very well made (no, I don’t work for them, but I do buy from them!) I use their MRBF for protection of the ACR leads and also for feeders to panels from a dedicated 12 volt positive buss bar terminal with only the minimum of connections made onto the battery terminals themselves. I was glad to see that someone in the comments had mentioned the battery terminal wing nuts and you had said you where changing them out, smart guy! The ‘dilemma’ of making one big 12 volt battery bank from the 4 – 6 volt golf cart batteries vs 2 smaller 12 volt banks that remain isolated except under ‘emergency’ type conditions will drag on longer than any of ever care to hear… the bottom line is, its your boat, you know what loads you have, how often you want (need?) to run the engine to recharge them when away from shore power and, I like it the way you did it with the one battery switch for simplicity. Remember, there may be a time when someone other than you needs to run the boat and its not easy to explain, “turn switch #1 to position #2 but only when the moon is high and the tide is low…” (hopefully that makes sense? Just know that I’m a powerboater, so you’ll have to excuse me!!! 🤔😖🤨😱🤯😎 If theres anything else I can help you with let me know… I’m only a 3-4 hr flight north of you!!! Rick

  10. Waughthog Waugh says:

    Hi JD. Just an observation from your circuit diagram that you may want to check over; There appears to be an unfused line that goes from house-bank B2 (-ve) to House-bank A1 (+ve) via two switches in series. I assume that these switches actually isolate the charger from the house bank and that you have deviated from your red/black drawing from earlier in the vid. Otherwise, if these two switches are inadvertently simultaneously closed you may end up with an unexpected BBQ opportunity. I'm sure its a drawing thing and not an actual wiring thing but having spotted it I thought it best to "speak up". Hey, well done on giving this a go and on keeping it simple! It is almost six months down the line since you posted this vid now, I'd love to hear how it has all worked out…

  11. redwood1957 says:

    A fine job looks good.Works thats the bonus. Do you have this in a drawing that one could copy paste and print?
    Thank you

  12. United Motor League Garage says:

    great video man. I started having electrical issues so it getting time to scrap my old battery setup and start from scratch. I also had a hard time finding what I needed online. This looks like it could work for me but I have two engines…from what I have read I can start both engines from one battery and if needed they should pull from the house bank if needed.

  13. holess24 says:

    Thank you so much for this. I have decided to try and do this change myself with my brother and we are clueless on what to do.. but instead of paying someone to do it we want to learn more about our boat. So the diagrams were a big help in the learning process. If I remember once we finish I will let you know how it went… wish us luck

  14. Richard Wheeler says:

    I think you presentation is excellent, probably one of the most down to earth I've seen. It makes me so happy to see all the positive leads to and from the positive terminal of the starting battery and switch, lol. It would seem one could run the main alternator lead to the starting battery, and a second lead to the common post on a 3 way switch, but that would require a 3rd lead back to the main starting battery…or the couldn't combine in a 1+2 config. maybe;) Yamaha told me to forget switches and sent me a small red lead for accessory battery charging. Whatever, I use the Blue Sea system, with the ACR. Thank you so much. You did a great job, and it is appreciated. It does take awhile to get it right.

  15. toobglued says:

    are you manually closing the ground to power the ACR? I see u have a switch in the diagram. otherwise If ACR monitors 24 hr, the battery charger will fool the ACR and make it combine, doing away with the two bank feature of the charger. Im sure you have figured this out by now.

    Do you have a remote pilot hooked to it? If so, did you find that only an LED indicator will work?

  16. Chris Morrison says:

    Hi Tight Little Tribe, I Really enjoyed Your Video, it's the best I have found on the Blue Sea Add a Battery. I am not an electrion but I'm intending on using this system on my Van Conversion to add a Aux Battery. (with a single12 volt 200Amp hour Battery ) I do Have a couple questions. On The Swtich itself.. does that wire going to engine, mean to the alternator positive ?.. and what guage of wire do you think that should be,  it needs to travel about 10 feet. On the ACR, the wire going to the starter, guage of that wire. appox. 10 ft. as well. and DO I  need Fuses on those wires as well. This Doesn't seem to be that Difficult, but I do have my concerns.. Thank You for taking the time to Do Your Video, the Directions on this product are not as good as they should be. Sincerely CGM 469

  17. Ericson 26 Savannah says:

    Sometimes it takes a village to get it done, the only thing I see in the the diagram that I don't like is the leed from your alternator is always hot. I would like to see a switch or a big ass note on the alternator to disconnect the lead from the battery when working on engine wiring.
    When I added a starting battery it was on a seperate switch it went to the starter, the alternator was isolated and went to a diode isolator it's like a one way valve. I have three leads coming from the isolator 2 house batteries and engine starting battery. This way I can switch house batteries when the engine is running ( I like a reserve battery so I can judge power usage easy) and not fry my diodes in the alternator. Granted with the engine running there is no need to change batteries but its a fail safe and it's a habit I conserve half my house bank when sailing I might add I do a lot of solo sailing but when I have friends along they can switch any switch and not kill the alternator.
    Thanks for your films!

  18. Andre Beneteau says:

    I installed this system in the spring……the toughest part for me was the very poor wiring schematic on the box. What they need to do in include a CLEAR instruction to go to their website with the link CLEARLY indicated on the box or instructions. By the time you get right down to it….the wiring and fuses/holders cost as much as the unit itself. But I have found that with all things boat electrical. Just a suggestion…you seem to have a lot of head space in the cabinet . I would for sure install L16 to get more reserve next battery replacement. Admire your perseverance!!!! Cheers

  19. Jonathan Bresler says:

    Well done! I must have missed something. The diagram does not show any fuses between the Marinco charger and either house bank or the starting battery. Guessing that they are installed on the boat, and got left off the diagram. Blue Sea Marine Battery Terminal Fuses (MTBF) are a good way to address this. MTBFs mount directly on the battery positive terminal so that all connections to the battery are fused. For my 55A alternator on the Yanmar 2GM20F with 6AWG wiring the Blue Sea iPhone app suggests 60A or 70A fuses.

  20. Aykut Saridal says:

    Man, until now this is the best diagram i ve seen. Was looking for it for 3 days. THank you soo much. can you send me some more details about it i ll send PM on instagram to you "tightlittletribe
    Thanks in advance. Greetings from Malta.

  21. Blue Merle says:

    I have been looking for a video on this topic since as your mention that no one seems to agree on how to setup the parallel connection with the Blue sea ACR . My configuration is a different because our boat has a outboard and trolling motor. I want one 12 V starting battery and two 12 V house batteries.

  22. Michael Scott says:

    I'm glad to finally find a video on this setup – good job! I'm trying to understand the purpose of the dual circuit switch and what "On" and "Off" mean. Does "On" mean the two batteries groups (starter, house) are fully operational and working normally as separate groups? Does "Off" mean they are disconnected and not operational to save on battery drain? Is the switch even needed for the ACR to function or how do the compliment each other?

  23. David Jessee says:

    Great video ! Ever think of installing 12 volt lithium battery's instead of 6 volt lead acid filled battery's?
    Lithium has a quicker charge time, longer run time , plus safer than lead battery's, especially when enclosed in a cabin under the stairs… lithium are more expensive but way more cost effective in the long run…

  24. cordelmar says:

    On the left of the switch you have cable going to the panel is the a fuse or open switch.?

  25. cordelmar says:

    How much cracking amps can that switch take?

  26. erik fischer says:

    Really enjoyed the video I got mine like 4 years ago and still have not installed it but you motivated me to do it.

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